It’s been years since we’ve last visited Mallorca. Back in the days spending time on the island equaled lazy beach holidays with friends or family in the southern or eastern parts of the island and that’s what basically drawed my memories. However, the baleares offer much more than just beach life. Mallorca’s west hosts the rugged Tramuntana range, beautiful karst mountains peaking more than 1400m above sea level. Not bad, especially with the sea almost always in sight!

We chosed the tiny mountain village Escorca and rented a way too spacious, beautifully set finca for five days.

Finca in Escorca, Tramuntana, Font d'Escorca

Finca in Escorca, Tramuntana, Font d’Escorca

Finca view overlooking the Serra de Tramuntana forest

Finca view overlooking the vast Serra de Tramuntana forest

We planned to spend our first full day in the mountains hiking the Torrent de Pareis, an impressive karst slot canyon with 300m cliffs. Right from the beginning at Escorca, the path meanders through gorgeous farm land set amongst rugged karst outcrops. An amazing landscape!

Tramuntana karst landscape at Escorca, Torrent de Paraeis hike

Tramuntana karst landscape at Escorca, Torrent de Paraeis hike

Natural rock arch on the way to S'Entreforc, Torrent de Paraeis hike

Natural karst rock arch on the way to S’Entreforc, Torrent de Paraeis hike

After a couple of 100m, the trail steepens sigificantly and offers stunning views of S’Entreforc, where Torrent de Gorg Blau and Torrent de Lluc confluence and mark the actual beginning of the Torrent de Pareis canyon.

Impressive view of S'Entreforc, Torrent de Paraeis hike

Impressive view of S’Entreforc, Torrent de Paraeis hike

After the initial descent, we found ourselves at the foot of the canyon, S’Entreforc. From now on, a lot of rock hopping slows down the walk in the Torrent!

The canyon narrows and the scramble starts

After S’Entreforc, the canyon narrows among huge vertical walls and the scramble begins

Beautiful karst canyon landscape

Deep in the Torrent de Pareis karst canyon

The going was slow in places, but the scenery definitely made up for it!

The going was slow in Torrent de Pareis, but the scenery definitely made up for it! 🙂

It was a fun hike, mostly rock hopping but also with some “technical” parts where you’d have to climb down 3-4m drops or squeeze through tiny slots in the rocks. Without ropes, it would be next to impossible to complete the trail because the rocks are so slick in places that you cannot really climb them.

There are some ridiculously tiny slots in the "trail", Torrent de Pareis

There are some ridiculously tiny slots in the Torrent de Pareis trail

Ropes help to manage the tricky Pas de s’Estaló Torrent de Pareis

Ropes help to manage Pas de s’Estaló, Torrent de Pareis

An awesome 8km scramble comes to an end at Sa Calobra

An awesome 8km scramble flattens and finally comes to an end at Sa Calobra

Torrent de Pareis must be some of the best hikes on Mallorca! After having the canyon almost all to ourselves, we were kind of shocked of how packed the (admittedly beautiful) Sa Calobra bay was. Still thrilled by the hike, though, time flew by quickly as we watched the suicidal goats roaming the cliffs that loom over the bay and walked to the bus station to catch the next ride back to Escorca.

The next day we went out to explore Biniaraix and Fornalutx, two adorable villages set a valley famous for its abundant orange plantations, on a more leisurely pace.

Fornalutx village is built of stone and red roof tiles

Fornalutx village is built of stone and red roof tiles

Still a bit exhausted from the scramble of the previous day, we just walked up Torrent de Biniaraix for a couple of minutes. What we saw looked quite promising, though. Noted on the bucket list for next time 🙂

Exploring the paths around Fornalutx

Exploring the paths around Fornalutx

Fornalutx with the beautiful backdrop of the Tramuntana range

Fornalutx with the beautiful backdrop of the Tramuntana range

The next day offered marvelous spring weather again as we drove up to Mallorcas northern cliffs, Cap de Formentor. The access roads were already busy even that early in the season, but once again it payed off to take the effort and get a little bit off the main path. A faint track on the eastern slopes of the peninsula led us to two secluded little coves which we had completely to ourselves.

Hiking path on Formentor to Cala Murta / Cala en Gossalba

Hiking path on Formentor to Cala Murta / Cala en Gossalba

Cala Murta is a stunning little cove for snorkeling and swimming on western Formentor, Mallorca

Cala Murta is a stunning little cove to snorkel and swim on eastern Formentor, Mallorca

The tiny Cala Murta is a gorgeous spot to tie a hammock and doze away in the shade of the pine trees!

Cala Murta beach hammock, Formentor, Mallorca

Cala Murta beach hammock, Formentor, Mallorca

Cala Murta rocky beach long exposure

Cala Murta rocky beach long exposure

On the trail connecting Cala Murta and Cala en Gossalba

On the trail connecting Cala Murta and Cala en Gossalba

Cala en Gossalba, Formentor, Mallorca

Cala en Gossalba, Formentor, Mallorca

Cap Formentor from Punta d'en Tomás viewpoint

Cap Formentor from Punta d’en Tomás viewpoint

Quite exposed stone steps leading up the cliff over Cala Figuera

Quite exposed stone steps leading up the cliff above Cala Figuera

Shades of blue at Cala Figuera, is a stunning bay with turquoise waters

Shades of blue at Cala Figuera, a stunning bay with turquoise waters

Shades of blue at Cala Figuera, is a stunning bay with turquoise waters

That’s how water should always look like…

Impossible to not go for a dive at Cala Figuera's turquoise waters

Impossible to not go for a dive at Cala Figuera’s turquoise waters!

Sunset panorama at Cova des Mirador de s'Entreforc viewpoint, Escorca, Mallorca

Sunset panorama at Cova des Mirador de s’Entreforc viewpoint, Escorca, Mallorca

On our last full day on the island, we did the Torrent de Mortitx hike, a loop that starts and ends on the property of Vinyes Mortitx, a finca publica.

Rugged coastal karst landscape around Vinyes Mortitx, Torrent Fondo de Mortitx hike

Rugged coastal karst landscape around Vinyes Mortitx, Torrent Fondo de Mortitx hike

Torrent Fondo de Mortitx scenery, Tramuntana

Karst scenery along Torrent Fondo de Mortitx, Tramuntana

After traversing beautifuly rugged karst terrain on the first half of the loop, the cliffs of Caleta D’Ariant and an abandoned farmhouse soon come into sight.

Cova de s'Arena is in sight, Torrent de Mortitx

Cova de s’Arena is in sight, Torrent de Mortitx

Huge vertical drop at the cliffs of Ses Fel-les and Caleta D'Ariant, Torrent de Mortitx

Huge vertical drop at the cliffs of Ses Fel-les and Caleta D’Ariant, Torrent de Mortitx

Low water levels made the scramble up Torrent de Mortitx reasonably easy

Low water levels made the scramble up Torrent de Mortitx reasonably easy

Getting sweaty in the mallorquin sun, Torrent de Mortitx

Getting all sweaty in the relentless mallorquin sun, Torrent de Mortitx

At the top of the canyon, an excellent path leads through the vineyard

At the top of the canyon, an excellent path leads through the vineyard

Vinyes Mortitx hosts some incredibly gnarly olive trees

Vinyes Mortitx hosts some incredibly gnarly olive trees

Scenery around Vinyes Mortitx, Tramuntana, Mallorca

Scenery around Vinyes Mortitx, Tramuntana, Mallorca

All that hiking and scrambling screamed for a proper sundowner and that little rock arch above Torrent de Pareis proved to be a sublime spot!

Late sunlight at the natural arch overlooking S'Entreforc / Torrent de Pareis

Late sunlight at the natural arch overlooking S’Entreforc / Torrent de Pareis

View through the natural arch on the S'Entreforc karst mountains, Torrent de Pareis at sunset

View through the natural arch on the S’Entreforc karst mountains, Torrent de Pareis at sunset

Natural arch of karst, Torrent de Pareis

Natural arch of karst, Torrent de Pareis

View through the natural arch on the S'Entreforc karst mountains, Torrent de Pareis at sunset

View through the natural arch on the S’Entreforc karst mountains, Torrent de Pareis at sunset

One of my favourite pics of the trip. Just gazing into sunset at the Torrent de Pareis, Tramuntana

One of my favourite pics of the trip – just gazing into sunset at the Torrent de Pareis, Tramuntana

Karst arch panorama, Torrent de Pareis, Tramuntana mountains

The beautiful Torrent de Pareis karst arch in last light